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 Post subject: Focus On Flight Upload Guidelines
PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:38 pm 
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Hello and Welcome to Focus On Flight! Here we'll try explain a little about our standards and our general ethos.

There are many, many aviation photography sites on the net and they have massively varying criteria. Our aim with Focus On Flight is to hover somewhere in the middle ground so the quality standards should be relatively easy to attain with a bit of work. We love standard images; high quality side-on shots are great but we also love creative images, so we very much welcome photographers who think 'outside the box'. Accepting varying types of images in some ways is actually a screening nightmare, so to try make sense of it all we have two levels of screening. The first is for more standard images, and when screening these we'll apply all the usual standard criteria so the aircraft must generally be centred, the exposure be accurate, a good level of sharpness, no distracting colour cast, etc. The second level is for more artistic images. If you upload an image you consider to be different (HDR or a black and white conversion of a modern airliner for example) then please select the 'Artistic' category on the upload page. This lets us know you're thinking along less standard lines and we'll view the image accordingly. Always try consider such artistic images carefully when shooting and editing them. Bear in mind that there's a time and a place for certain things, like for example doing a black and white conversion of a British Airways A319 on approach to Heathrow won't usually add much to the image so there's no real point in doing it. We'll still accept it if the general quality is good enough and if that's what you wish to do, but it still isn't necessarily an appropriate or effective use of a technique. On the other hand, a black and white conversion of an old DC-10 or Concorde is far more appropriate. Again, try consider whether your approach really adds anything to the image. If it does genuinely take it to another level then go right ahead, but if it doesn't then you should probably consider a more conventional approach.

We want to have a varied database of high quality and interesting images but we also want to encourage photographers to get the very best out of themselves. Often all that requires is a little thought and time spent learning, which is why we have threads in the Aviation Photography forums dedicated to helping you should you need it. We'll always try leave a brief note if an image is rejected, but if there's anything you don't understand or agree with then please feel free to ask in the forums. Rejections and the process of learning how to avoid them can be very frustrating at times, but it's one of our aims to help as much as we can. As long as photographers are willing to spend a certain amount of time learning then our screeners are more than happy to spend time giving advice and explaining various aspects of aviation photography in detail, so please ask if you need to. We'll always do our very best to help.

The following is a list of the most common rejection reasons that apply to standard images (so those where "Artistic" isn't selected). Naturally there are certain things common to both standard and artistic images, but if you upload a standard image it will be viewed with the following criteria in mind:

Aspect Ratio and Maximum Upload Size

We don't really believe in starting everyone at a restricted small upload size and then having to 'earn' the right to upload larger, so we have a site-wide maximum of 1920 pixels wide for all members. We do however ask that a little common sense be used! The larger the image, the more obvious flaws like softness and noise become so if you do wish to upload images at 1600 pixels wide then make sure they're only your very, very highest quality images and there's something to actually be gained from such a large size. If you have a high number of rejections for reasons we believe wouldn't have occurred had the image been smaller then we'll contact you and suggest ways to avoid such rejections. If size related rejections continue then we may restrict the maximum upload size on an individual basis. Please try keep file sizes at 1MB or less where possible.

We accept images with aspect ratios ranging from 4:3 to 16:9, so from square to the widescreen aspect ratio many modern computer monitors have. If uploading portrait images then please ensure they're no higher than 1200 pixels. The minimum accepted size (along the longest side of the image) is 1000 pixels.

When cropping it's sometimes possible (especially when rotating heavily) to crop 'outside' your actual photo, and this generally leaves a small area of white either in the corner or down one side of the image. This can be quite easy to miss if it's only a tiny error so it's worth keeping an eye out for!

Queue Limit

At the moment all contributors start with a queue limit of 20, but please be aware this may be reduced if you have repeated rejections for the same reason. Please also note that rejected images will not count against the amount you can upload, the limit is purely the maximum amount of images that can be in the queue at any one time and any rejections will have no affect on this.

Bad Info

The information uploaded with the image needs to be accurate, so registrations, aircraft types, serial numbers, etc, all need to be included (where possible) and be correct. If the information is wrong in any way this may lead to a rejection.


Categories tell us the role an aircraft has and makes it easier for our users to search for specific types of aircraft, so it's quite important the appropriate categories are selected when you upload. The categories are:

Artistic:- Selecting Artistic tells us you're not thinking along 'standard' lines with your image and as such it won't be screened with 'standard' criteria in mind, it will be judged as a photograph rather than a specific aviation image. Because of this certain things that may be considered technical flaws can be overlooked, so for example the aircraft doesn't have to be central in the frame; if it works within the context of the image and adds something then it won't be considered a reason to reject.

Please use care when uploading images as Artistic. Simply placing an aircraft in a clear sky at the bottom of the frame and saying it's artistic doesn't work because there's nothing to be achieved in doing that, so such cases will generally be rejected. If, however, your main subject aircraft is low in the frame or off-centre and there's a great contrail or another aircraft clearly elsewhere in the frame then this may be acceptable if the general quality is good enough.

Accident:- Does the image show an accident either happening or an aircraft post-accident? If so please select this category. Please be aware that certain images falling into this category may not be entirely appropriate for us to publish.

Air To Air:- For photos of an aircraft in the air taken from another also in the air.

Airport:- For airport overviews, runway, terminal, or any other kind of image depicting a part of an airport please select this category.

Cabin/Cargo Hold:- For images taken inside the cabin of a passenger aircraft or the hold of a cargo aircraft.

Cockpit:- Please select for all flight deck photos.

Night Shot:- Please select Night Shot if your image was taken at night or in the early morning/evening when the light is significantly different to normal daylight.

Bizjet:- Please select this for business jet aircraft and also other aircraft converted to business use (a 747 converted to a VIP configuration for example).

Cargo Aircraft:- For aircraft that specifically carry cargo, both dedicated cargo aircraft and conversions that were previously used for passenger traffic.

Helicopter:- Please select for any rotary wing aircraft.

Lighter Than Air:- Please select this category for air balloons, airships and other lighter than air craft.

Single Engine Prop:- Any small prop aircraft up to around the size of a Pilatus PC-12, including vintage aircraft like the Spitfire.

Special Scheme:- Celebratory schemes like 'retro' liveries and otherwise non-standard schemes.

Vintage Civil Aircraft:- Older civil aircraft like the Boeing 707, Douglas DC-6, etc.

Vintage Military Aircraft:- Older military aircraft like the Vulcan, Spitfire, Lancaster, etc.

Uploading Airport-Specific Images

A quick note on cabin shots - please avoid uploading images taken from your seat simply by holding the camera up. This generally results in a pretty unpleasant angle of the cabin; standing in the aisle and looking slightly geeky is the way to go!

We accept a wide variety of airport-specific images and the autofill system is designed to make uploading them as easy as possible. For an image where the airport is already in the database, enter either the IATA or ICAO code into both the Registration and Airport fields. You will then see a drop down menu in the 'Type' field where you can select the appropriate category. If an airport isn't currently in the database, leave both Registration and Airport fields blank and hit 'Get Info'. This will give you the Categories menu and enable you to enter the airport information manually. To keep the database as accurate as possible please try be careful when entering information manually. It will always be double-checked in screening but it makes the process quicker and easier if added accurately when uploaded. When uploading Airport images the 'Airport' category will automatically be selected.

In keeping with the general ethos of the site we don't take a measured or technical approach to airport-specific images, we just ask for a little common sense to be used. If an image generally shows more ramp than terminal then it's probably appropriate to upload as ramp. If a control tower dominates the frame then it's probably appropriate to look at that as being the main subject and upload as such.

A brief description of the available categories:

Airport Overview

Select Airport Overview for general overviews that don't show a specific part of the aircraft like ramp, terminal, control tower, etc. A classic use for this is if you're flying over an airport and have taken a photo of a large part of the site.

Control Tower

If you're uploading an image where the subject is specifically a control tower, either taken outside or inside, then please select this option.


This is for showing a wider view of ramp areas. The image may show multiple aircraft in view or simply be an empty ramp area, but please only select this if there's no specific aircraft that can be called the main subject. If a single aircraft fills most of the frame then it's usually most appropriate to upload as that specific aircraft.


If uploading an image where the main subject is a runway then please select this category. If you've taken an image from an aircraft while, for example turning onto the runway but the image still shows a large part of the wing, please upload as the specific aircraft you're on and select 'Wing View' rather than upload as runway. This category is generally for use when there isn't much else in the frame apart form the actual runway.

Spotting Location

This category is for showing areas at airports commonly used for spotting. There are three requirements for such images: firstly an aircraft must be clearly visible, secondly people (or at least a person clearly spotting) must be in view, and thirdly a short description of the actual spot itself is required. The description doesn't need to be huge but please try include details like the best times for photography (so when the light is best), how easy the spot is to reach, etc. Things that may be useful to others wishing to visit the same spot.


Images showing general areas of a terminal, either inside or out, may be uploaded. Please try consider what you're trying to show with terminal shots, for example a photo of a modern LCD or plasma arrivals/departures board probably isn't going to be all that interesting whereas a wide-angle shot of a busy check-in hall possibly will be. Please also select this category for uploading external views where the specific subject is the terminal or a part of it.

File Error

Occasionally computers or the internet (or both) get confused, and when they do it can mean the file you're trying to upload doesn't reach us properly. If this happens, please try re-uploading or contact us and we'll do our best to help.

Unclear Motive

A motive rejection means it isn't really clear what you're trying to show. We accept a very wide range of images but the subject and reason for taking the photo should still be clear, so as mentioned earlier, always try thinking carefully about why you're taking the photo. If you're uploading an image where the motive may not seem immediately obvious, writing a brief explanation in the comment field explaining what the image contains and why you took it may help us understand your line of thinking and avoid a motive rejection.


This is slightly shaky ground in the world of aviation photography! Many sites won't allow things to be altered in the frame (like removing the odd lamp post or annoying sign). We don't really have too much of a problem with that as long as there's no evidence of it. There's nothing worse than bad cloning (well, there is but you know what we mean), so as long as the essence of the image remains unchanged then it should be acceptable. Composite images aren't acceptable though, we do require the photo to be 100% the product of a single frame from a camera.


The image is identical to one already in the database. As we see having two identical images in the database as being a bit greedy, doubles will be rejected (only joking, we know it's an easy mistake to make sometimes but it makes life easier if you do a quick search before uploading to ensure the image is different to those already accepted).


We don't have any set criteria for similar images, we just ask photographers to use their judgement. A good general guide when taking multiple photos of the same aircraft is try make sure each is at least 45 degrees different from anything else you have in the database. Please do try avoid uploading images that are virtually identical to others you already have.


There are some quite nasty people on the internet who are willing to steal the images you've worked so hard to create and claim them as their own work. We don't really like nasty people, so we provide the facility for you to watermark your images should you wish to protect them from these thieves. As there's a site watermark available, please don't add your own. We do ask a reasonable amount of taste and sense be applied when using this function; the purpose of watermarking is to protect your image against theft but it doesn't always need to be huge and bold right through the centre of the frame to do that, so please remember your subject mustn't be entirely obliterated by the watermark. If it is, a rejection for the watermark being too obtrusive may occur.


They're annoying, they're irritating, but sadly they're a part of life for DSLR users. The lens sitting on the front of your camera body essentially acts as a pump, pushing and pulling air through the mirror box of your camera so it's only natural that occasionally bits of dust will grab onto your sensor and stubbornly refuse to budge. This leads to very distracting dark blobs showing on your image which become more obvious the more you stop the lens down. As dust spots are generally quite easy to exterminate from your image using the Clone or Heal tool in editing software, any visible dust will lead to a rejection.

Aircraft Blocked

The subject of the image will generally be an aircraft, so try avoid having things in the way. A tiny bit of obstruction is usually acceptable as long as it doesn't detract from the subject, but it will often lead to rejection if significant parts of the aircraft are blocked for no apparent reason. If you're taking a photo of an aircraft on a ramp then normal service vehicles like catering trucks and stairs will usually be accepted as an appropriate part of what you're shooting, even if they partially obstruct the aircraft.


If an image is taken through a window, any glare or dirt on the window visible in the image will usually lead to rejection. When taking wing views try ensure the window is as clean as possible, and when shooting through glass take your lens hood off and put the lens as flat and as close as you can to the glass. This will help avoid reflections.


The first few stages of what happens when you capture an image with a digital camera are actually entirely analogue. Light hits the sensor, generating tiny electrical signals which are then fed into an amplifier. When we increase the ISO of a digital camera we increase the gain of this amplifier, and as with any analogue amplifier more gain means more noise (in exactly the same way as cranking an electric guitar amplifier also increases the hiss you hear). Using too high a sensitivity (ISO) for the conditions or excessively brightening an image in editing software will often lead to increased levels of noise which can possibly mean a rejection. To avoid this, always try keep your ISO as low as possible for the conditions you're shooting in. That said, don't be so wary of noise that you sacrifice images. There are many photographers who believe shooting at anything above ISO 100 will destroy photos and incur the wrath of the Grain Police. They're actually lying, that isn't the case at all. In reality, even low end modern DSLR's have extremely good noise performance and shooting at ISO 400 or higher can give perfectly useable results if the exposure is accurate and the images processed carefully. On a bright day with plenty of light there's no reason to shoot at anything other than the lowest setting, but in less than ideal conditions don't be afraid of cranking the ISO up a little. Remember, a slightly noisy shot is infinitely more useful than a blurry one.


This is a very rare rejection reason but it essentially means there are too many things wrong with the image to go into in any great detail. To be honest and rather blunt, it's basically a polite way of saying go back to the drawing board. If you find you're consistently having images rejected for quality then it may an idea to ask where you're going wrong in our forums, we'll do our very best to explain where the problems are and get you back on the right path.

Inappropriate Comment

The comment field is intended only for comments related to the actual photo, so perhaps an explanation as to what's happening, a little history on the aircraft, any special memories you may have from a trip, etc. Please keep all comments relevant to the image and please don't link to external sites. Inappropriate comments may either be edited, deleted or cause the image to be rejected.


Composition is subjective, but only really to a point. For standard images the aircraft should sit centrally in the frame, and placing it off-centre for no clear reason may mean the image is rejected. The following are standard images, and as such there's no real reason for the aircraft not being in the centre.

Aircraft too high
Aircraft too low
Aircraft to the side of the frame

The following photos have the aircraft off-centre but for a clear reason, which is perfectly acceptable. Please remember to select Artistic if uploading images like these.

Acceptable composition
Acceptable composition

Subject Too Far

As the aircraft is generally your main subject it should fill the frame unless there's a specific compositional reason for it not doing. If, for example you're uploading a photo containing two or aircraft passing each other on parallel taxiways then please upload as the aircraft nearest to the camera. For more standard images the aircraft should be large in the frame, and here's an example of an image that needs a slightly tighter crop:

Too far

If uploading images of display teams or multiple aircraft in the same frame then please try upload the registration of the lead aircraft where possible.

Cut Off

This rejection reason is related closely to composition. When you compose a photo you're trying to make things fit in a way that's pleasing to the eye, and this generally involves composing your photo around things that are significant like engines, landing gear, etc. When we cut through these parts we start to have a somewhat 'unclean' look, but this can be avoided by applying a little thought to how you crop.

While there's nothing really massively wrong here, the crop to the left goes straight through the main gear and through a window.

Landing gear cut off

This isn't exactly the biggest sin ever to be committed with a camera, but it is avoidable. Rather than crop through significant bits of the plane we can crop behind the main gear, giving a much cleaner image.

Cropped to the main gear

A few more examples of classic cut off candidates. Again, this is very easy to avoid so try base your crop around significant parts of the aircraft.

Tail cut off
Nose cut off
Fuselage cut off
Engine cut off

Heat Distortion

Heat haze is pure evil, but sadly the laws of physics dictate it's something we just have to put up with. This unfortunate effect happens when there are patches of air differing in temperature between your camera and your subject. If you put a stick partially into a swimming pool it doesn't appear straight, and this is because the different density of the water is bending (or refracting) the light rays which distorts how we see them. A similar thing happens with heat distortion. Cold air is more dense than warm air, so as light passes through varying temperatures it bends, and this is the wavy effect we see on the photos. Unfortunately there's absolutely nothing we can do about heat haze. There's no magic 'anti-heat haze' filter in any editing software, so if your photo is affected by it there isn't much you can do. The only real option is to only choose to shoot from locations you know you won't generally have a problem (like those where you're not shooting over a lot of tarmac). Here's a rather extreme example of what heat haze looks like.

Heat haze


Digital cameras can be a bit odd when it comes to colour, they don't see colour in the same way as people and essentially they need to be told what conditions are like if they're to record colour accurately. This is White Balance, and is essentially the balance between the three channels of colour your camera uses to produce an image. Most modern DSLR's produce very good results using auto white balance but there are certain circumstances that can confuse the camera, particularly shooting at night where your subject may be lit by several different light sources each with a different colour temperature. Operator error can also play a part, like using the incorrect white balance settings for the conditions.

Here are two examples of what incorrect White Balance looks like. Shooting, for example, using the Sunny setting on a cloudy day will result in an image looking something like this:

Incorrect white balance - image too cold

And using Cloudy on a sunny day will give the same effect but at the opposite end of the spectrum.

Incorrect white balance - image too warm

Colour problems can also manifest themselves in other ways. This image is undersaturated, and as such lacks depth:

Colours undersaturated

And here's an oversaturated example, leading to unnatural looking and overemphasised colours:

Colours oversaturated

These flaws are usually fairly easy to fix, and even quite extreme cases of incorrect white balance can be rectified. If you have such an image that needs fixing and you're unsure how to do it then please ask in the Digital Image Processing forum and one of our screeners will be happy to go through it with you. If you're shooting through tinted glass or at night under artificial light it's always a good idea to use custom white balance. This essentially involves taking a photo, going into the menu of your camera and into the custom white balance settings, selecting that photo and then changing the white balance to custom for your next frame. The camera will then use the actual scene you're shooting as a reference and the whites should appear pure. If you're unsure how to do this, quickly consulting your camera's manual should explain all.


Buildings tend to fall over if they lean (unless we're talking about a certain Italian tower made of marble but for the sake of ease we'll forget about that one for the moment), so for the vast majority of the time the horizon in your image should be level and buildings should appear straight. Certain spots can be quite awkward to level as runways and taxiways aren't always level, so always try keep an eye on references like buildings or lamp posts (bearing in mind that occasionally lamp posts themselves lean so aren't always an accurate reference!)

Here are a couple of images taken at Manchester, UK, which is notoriously difficult to level in some places. Both these images can be levelled using references in the background.

Horizon unlevel - Needs clockwise rotation
Horizon unlevel - Needs counter-clockwise rotation


Light is pretty much the single most important thing in photography. Absolutely everything we ever do with a camera involves light, and if we're to get the best results then we need to make the most of the light we have. The human visual system is remarkable in many ways, and one of them is the ease with which it automatically adjusts for the brightness and contrast in a scene. When we see two objects of vastly differing brightness at the same time our brain naturally darkens the brighter one and lightens the darker one. In effect we have a kind of 'adaptive localised ISO' system which means we can see a tremendous range of tones from very dark to very bright (and incidentally this is why when we see something bright and close our eyes we still see it on our eyelids - that's where our brain has 'masked' the bright areas and adjusted for them). The digital camera, while pretty smart sadly isn't quite as clever. It works to a very set bunch of rules that have their roots firmly bedded in physics so there are certain things they just can't do, and take good photos pointing towards a light source is one of them. There are times when backlighting works astoundingly well (like if you're taking silhouette shots for example), but in most other cases it will result in a dull, flat looking image that does nothing to wake your eyes up and make them want to look. Always try ensure the sun is behind you when shooting as this will mean you get the best of the light and the best contrast on your subject. Airports aren't always great places for being in the ideal place for photography and we often have to settle for less than ideal situations, but nonetheless, it's usually possible to get reasonable results if you're willing to maybe move to a better spot or get to the airport at a time where the light is a little better.

Here are a couple of examples of how backlit looks. And it looks... Well... Not all that pleasant really.



Digital cameras inherently produce soft images, which may sound odd but it's entirely true. Imagine we have two pixels side by side so they form a rectangle and then we shine light at exactly half of that rectangle. The result will be one dark pixel and one light pixel. Now imagine five pixels next to each other. If we now shine light at exactly half this line then we have two dark pixels, two light pixels and one that's in the middle, and it's this middle pixel that makes our image soft because we no longer have a sharp dividing line between dark and light. When we sharpen an image in software we don't affect this 'inbetween' pixel, we affect the two next to it by making the dark pixel darker and the light pixel lighter. This redefines the line between two areas of contrast and gives the impression the image is sharper.

There are two main variables in standard sharpening, Amount and Radius. The Amount adjusts how much sharpening you apply and the Radius adjusts how wide an area the sharpening works over (how many pixels we 'darken and lighten'). It's quite important you use the correct radius for the size image you're working on as using too large a radius can exaggerate the effects of oversharpening; the larger the image, the larger the radius should be. Oversharpening gives the image a very jaggy and harsh appearance, like this:


Oversharpening is generally easily fixed as long as the original image isn't too soft.


As mentioned above, digital cameras are inherently soft and without proper processing the images they produce stay that way. Soft rejections are usually quite easy to fix assuming the original image isn't blurry.



Blur is the unfortunate thing that happens when the shutter speed isn't quite quick enough to freeze what you're shooting. There's no way to recover a blurry image but there are things you can do to avoid it. Unless you're shooting static subjects using a tripod, always try ensure your shutter speed is at least equal to but ideally slightly greater than your focal length. If you're at 100mm then try get your shutter speed to at least 1/125th, for 200mm use a minimum of 1/250th, for 400mm use a minimum of 1/500th, and so on. This won't necessarily guarantee you'll avoid blurry images but it will certainly help.

An example of blurriness:


Inappropriate Post-Processing

The nature of how digital cameras work means the images they produce naturally require a certain amount of processing. Digital cameras don't actually 'see' the world as such, they break what the lens projects onto the sensor down into millions of tiny parts and then rebuild an image from that information using software. There's quite a fine line between standard processing to get the best out of your image and applying too much processing, and when too much is applied the result is generally detrimental to the quality of the photo. Essentially the digital equivalent to standard darkroom adjustments like brightness and contrast adjustments, adding saturation and sharpening are all perfectly fine, but going overboard will often degrade the image.

Over-processing often shows itself as light or dark halos around the subject and is usually a result of using the Shadow/Highlight tool in editing software or 'D-Lighting' if using a newer Nikon DSLR. A slightly different edit will often fix an over-processed rejection.



One of the limitations we face when using digital cameras is the fact their dynamic range is limited, meaning we only have a set range of tones from dark to light we can record. Because of this it's quite important to get the exposure as accurate as possible when taking the photo. Certain flaws are fixable to an extent with editing software but overxposure sadly isn't one of them, so once you overexpose the detail lost can never be properly recovered. In this example we can see the results of the exposure being pushed too much, which leaves an unbalanced image lacking detail in the highlights and generally looking washed out.



Underexposure can be easier to fix than overexposure because you're not pushing things in quite the same way, but it still isn't ideal. If you need to brighten an image a lot in editing software then you'll increase noise in exactly the same way as if you increase ISO (in fact, brightening by 1 stop in editing will give an increase in noise roughly equivalent to doubling the ISO). Keeping an eye on the histogram when shooting and editing will give you an absolute reference for what your exposure is actually doing.


Too Much Contrast

Contrast is essentially how the tones in the image are balanced. These tones can be split into three groups, shadows, mid tones and highlights, and if they're not balanced the contrast usually looks wrong. A lack of shadows, not enough mid tones, dull highlights or a number of other flaws can ruin the contrast of your image. Rather than have a single rejection reason simply for contrast we have two, one for too much and one for too little.

Here's an example of too much contrast where the shadows and highlights are pushed too far, leading to a harsh, unnatural look:

Too much contrast

Too Little Contrast

Not having enough shadows and highlights in your image will lead to it looking flat, un-dynamic and uninteresting. Many otherwise great images are ruined by this flaw which is usually very easy to fix with a quick adjustment in editing software. Here's how it looks:

Too little contrast

If you find you're having problems with contrast then this tutorial may help.


All JPEG images have compression but the effects of it shouldn't be visible. If you compress too much when saving your image then details start to be 'dumped' so there's less detail and the file size is smaller, which doesn't generally make for a very pleasant image. It's generally perfectly fine saving a couple of steps below highest quality in most editing software, although it's a good idea saving at highest.


Newsworthy Images

Selecting Newsworthy will put your image to the front of the queue and give it priority screening, and for that reason we ask this feature to only be used for appropriate images! Which are:

A new type of aircraft for an airline. Please note this doesn't include sub-types (so if an airline already operates A330-300's their first A330-200 won't class as hot).

A new airline - first images of a newborn baby airline will always be accepted as newsworthy.

A new special scheme for an airline like a retro scheme, logojet, etc.

An accident or general out-of-the-ordinary event (for example an unfortunate landing gear collapse or similar). As with the Accident category, certain images may not be appropriate to publish.

Naturally this list isn't absolutely complete and other things may qualify as newsworthy if they're unique/interesting/strange enough. If uploading an image that doesn't quite fit into the newsworthy criteria listed above then please just try use a little common sense.

We want Focus On Flight to be an enjoyable, friendly and easy site to use and be a part of, so we've tried to set our standards reasonably without excluding too much. As mentioned at the start of these guidelines we don't want to just deal with your images, we also want to help if you're having difficulty meeting the standards for some reason. We love photography and love seeing photographers improve, so please don't ever be afraid to ask for advice if you need to. Our photography forums are there to be used, and in them you'll find in-depth tutorials on various subjects and dedicated forums to ask questions. Also if there's a subject you'd like to see a tutorial written on (naturally assuming it's vaguely related to aviation photography) then feel free to give us ideas and we'll try compile something that may help. We also welcome any feedback on anything you see written here.

Kind regards,

Jordan Appleson & Paul Nichols -

FocusOnFlight admin person, database fiddler, screener, photography geek and chief muppet

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